Saturday, August 6, 2011

A Beloved Wildnerness

Tassie, you have won my heart!  Full of green rolling hills and beautiful untouched beaches.  Vast natural beauty at its purest.

During our stay in Australia, we were told many times not to miss Tasmania.  A year just about flew by before we knew it, so we planned our Tasmania roadtrip for our first anniversary weekend in early June, just as winter was approaching.

Tasmania is a self-sustaining island that is just a quick hop over the treacherous waters of the Bass Strait via airplane or 8 hours via passenger/car ferry.  Despite its isolation it is still considered a state of Australia.   Tasmania was believed to have been connected to the mainland at one time many thousands of years ago before the land bridge disappeared into what we know now as the Bass Strait.  The British first settled on the island in 1803, inhabited only by Tasmanian Aboriginals.  Consistent with Australian history, the island was settled primarily by convicts and their military guards to develop agriculture and other industries, which led to development of the state and eventual decline of the Aboriginals who lived there.  Tasmania has few native animals (possom, wallaby, Tasmanian Devil) and is free from introduced predators such as dingoes, however foxes were introduced fairly recently.  Following the extinction of the Tasmanian Tiger (looked like a large dog with stripes) a century after the first White settlement, the most dangerous animal on the island is now the tiger snake (and of course in Australia you can always throw in a few spiders).

We started out in the primary city of Hobart, a cute seaside town that is the gateway to the Tasman Peninsula to the West, the city of Launceston directly South, and the least inhabited East.  We spent our Saturday morning at Hobart’s famous Salamanca Market, a huge outdoor market filled with pure Tasmanian handicrafts.  It was highly recommended that we enjoy a specialty hot chocolate and jam doughnut while wandering through the market.  I had a chili hot chocolate at breakfast, which was very good, but really really spicy!  And although I was full from breakfast I had to get my warm jam doughnut.  I am not sure why I thought this jam doughnut was going to be anything different than a usual 'jelly' doughnut, but it was a specific recommendation, a must-do during my trip to Tassie.  So I got my jam doughnut, which in fact was just a warm jelly doughnut, just like at home, and afterward Jaime had to practically roll me around the market I was so full!
Hobart Marina

As some light rain rolled in, we rolled out of Hobart, over the bridge, and heading West for a pretty 2 hour drive to Coles Bay.  The drive took us along the only highway to the west and far from civilization.  There were plenty of farms and homes along the way so spread out, that most had a few hour drive to the nearest neighbor, hospital or airport.

Scenery along the way.



Apparently the kangaroos are huge here!
Once we reached the coast, we drove South before taking the small turn-off to Coles Bay.  A tiny tiny town with a  general store, 2 restaurants, a small marina, and some beautiful look-out points.  Jaime caught some great pictures of the sun setting over the bay.  We dropped into the local pub to try the Tassie made Hazard’s Ale and mingled with a few locals.  We ate at one of the local hotels that was highly recommended and lived up to its reviews.  Tasmania is known to have really great food mostly because everything is grown, raised, or caught locally and you could really tell you were eating fresh and happy food!





Do people still use phone booths?

The next morning we did our hike to up to Wineglass Bay. It is an approximate 2 hour hike round-trip up the mountain along a cleared path which wasn’t so bad, until the path turned into steps, lots and lots of steps. Once at the top, our workout had been well-worth it.



Beautiful Wineglass Bay
We took our time wandering around and then began our trip further south down the coast to the highly photographed Bay of Fires.  The Bay of Fires got its name, not from the red rocks, but from the fires that could be seen by the British ships lit up all along the coast at night.  We stayed in a sweet little cottage jutting out of the hillside with a wide view of the beautiful bay.  That night we ate right on the water at a small café that again had the best food and the best fish I have ever had.  The Blue Eye is a deep water fish native to Antartica, which is not too far from Tassie, and is caught by the local deep-sea fisherman.  It was so good, it was the only fish we ate when we got back to Melbourne.
View of the Bay from our cottage
The next morning we spent our time checking out a few of the beaches around the bay. We were the only ones out there, the sand was soft and gleaming white and the water was crystal clear.  The only footprints were ours and the little penguins that came home the night before and left for their day of fishing that morning.  We climbed the rocks and took it all in.  The air was crisp and we were amazed that we were the only people enjoying such a beautiful place.






Heading back to the car we did see one other person, a German vagabond who had set up camp just beyond the sea grass.  He, like us, loved being so free in such a beautiful place.  He lived simply in a small trailer where he built his own oven and heating system, and used a spear for fishing.   He told us stories about swimming in the ocean in the mornings and sometimes he was joined by a small passing Southern Right whale.  He had amazing video from an underwater camera.  And this is his home that he shares with only the little fairy penguins.





Reluctant to leave such a beautiful place we had to get to Launceston for our flight out that evening.  The drive by distance is about 3 hours east, but the roads winded through the rainforest and mountains, which made the drive much longer but very scenic.


More stops and scenery along the way.












We ended up in Launceston with not much time to check out the small town but we were able to see the popular Cradle Mountain.  The weekend flew by and we took our quick 45 minute flight back to Melbourne refreshed from being in such a beautiful, clean, and simple place.  Tassie is a gem with so much beauty waiting to be discovered and enjoyed, we easily could have spent a few weeks exploring this place that seems like a whole other world!


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